On one hand the aesthetics of simplicity, made of sharp silhouettes and linear shapes. On the other the aesthetics of elegance, with few prints and a lot of color well calibrated. Roberto Musso, an Italian fashion designer, is a certainty in the fashion world, a world subject to swirling changes of style.
Calm, gentle, deeply in love with his work, he does not belong to the generation of Millennials, who grew up in Instagram and 2.0, but speaks their language. Certainly his elegant approach is very far from the many style bowel howlers bouncing from social networks to the streets. But the wise and carefree use of blocks of color, the abstract motifs and the succession of lines now thin now thicker, give to his fashion a light touch.
His woman is sparkling, modern, original without being extravagant. Besides Roberto has made the balance a philosophy of life. His style dresses more than undress and makes no concessions to the male wardrobe. Weights, cuts, volumes and fabrics are those of the Italian tailoring tradition, feminine and daring without ever being excessive.
The jackets follow the figure without forcing it, the trousers fall soft, the skirts sway without marking the hips and the clothes glide on the body until almost disappearing. Roberto prefers to reveal more than show, the neckings are never too deep, the lengths never too short. The only exception allowed is the chromatic one, orange, pink, green, yellow and flou shades to amaze.
Rigidity and softness give shape to portable but never trivial garments. The colors define the visual rhythm of each model, while the few abstract strokes and the intertwined belts balance the proportions. The designer remains true to himself in the new line Unique Edition, presented last winter and destined to have an increasing importance, while the label “Roberto Musso” will be declined in a capsule collection.
If the winter collection has given us beautiful coats with a vaguely oriental flavour, the summer is a tribute to the skirt. Wheel and half-wheel, strictly Midi, with charming details such as small tails and overlays of lines or metallic wires to illuminate the folds. The trousers remember more than the trousers-skirts, are ample, fluid, embrace the body without forcing it. The outerwear is screwed and maybe with important revers, but thanks to the cracks do not tighten.
Few accessories. There are the belts, which in the structure resemble the Japanese Obi, the essential jewels, made in collaboration with the designer Giulia Colussi, and the flat and colored sandals.
Talking with Roberto
(Q) Good morning Roberto, I thank you for your time. Talk to me about Unique Edition…
(A) Unique Edition Roberto Musso is the line to which my team and I are working and which we launched last winter. In my projects it is destined to take on an ever greater relevance, while Roberto Musso will remain as a label of capsule collection especially for the foreign market. What prompted me to diversify the collections was the desire to tell a different woman, original, modern, not bridled in the clichés of fashion. The clothes are pieces with a strong visual impact, where there is a stylistic research not only on the forms but also in the use of colors and materials.
(Q) Unique is a hymn to individuality. All your collections categorically reject the diktat of style. Did you have any problems with your choice?
(A) No, I have a very specific and demanding target. Mine is a niche product, which works on small numbers. All my staff embraces my stylistic philosophy. My models are developed to meet the needs of a selected clientele, in search of garments that become expression of a very personal and uncommercial style.
(Q) Today, due to the social networks, we witness a massive approval especially in the look. The younger generations seem devoid of individuality. How dangerous is this to adapt to a unique style?
(A) Every technological innovation has its pros and cons. While the ease of access and usability of social media has allowed a greater exchange of information and a sharing of thoughts and ideas, on the other hand has favoured the spread of the approximation. I am rather sceptical about the so-called “influencer“, it is mostly people who have little or no knowledge of fashion, its history, its people, what pushes them is some vague passion but limited skills. Before the dream of young people was to go on TV, today to be someone on Instagram. It is a much simpler, immediate dream that requires a minimal effort. The distorted data of followers, likes and engagement do not allow us to make precise estimates on the real impact of this phenomenon, if not when we see the distortions of style bouncing from a post in everyday life. I would like young people to have models a little less ephemeran and superficial to inspire, rediscover the pleasure of culture, knowledge, curiosity to know how something is done, the desire to touch a cloth or admire a beautiful painting.
(Q) What’s your relationship with social networks?
(A) I use them especially for work, then I stay old-fashioned regarding personal relationships.
Spring is coming…
(Q) Let’s talk about your SS2019 collection. You have chosen the skirt, a garment often sacrificed in the name of practicality. Is your invitation to rediscover femininity?
(A) I love skirts, so feminine and modern. Unfortunately they are often sacrificed in the name of practicality. With Unique I tried to develop skirts of design but very portable. A special recognition goes to my dressmaker, a former engineer. She manages to transform my ideas of cuts and overlays into something wearable!
(Q) Is there a color that can absolutely not be lacking in the closet?
(A) The blue, I love it, even if it not easy to sell.
(Q) And an accessory?
(A) I do not like them very much. I prefer a rigorous fashion, clean, without too much frills. For the SS2019 I made two concessions. One to Giulia Colussi, a friend of a lifetime, because her jewels are very close to my style. The other to the belts, twisted or plissetted, a tribute to Yohji Yamamoto, thanks to him I approached the fashion design.
(Q) What do you do when you don’t work?
(A) Unfortunately I do not have much time. When I do not draw I deal with all the practical and bureaucratic issues of the company.
(Q) A female figure who could embody the Unique spirit…
(A) I do not have an ideal woman, for me a garment is an object that must dress well. In my philosophy every model is destined to a unique woman, able to wear it and interpret it. Both, dress and person, complement each other.
(Q) You couldn’t live without…
(A) The mobile, there is my whole life, working speaking, in it. If I were to lose it, I would be a dead man (laughs).
(Q) What do you want to get rid of?
(A) Of Social Media! (laughs)